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With new skincare products constantly hitting the market and social media popularising skincare trends such as “slugging” and “K-beauty,” it can be a little challenging to separate the hype from science-backed ingredients that truly deliver results.
Dr Alek Nikolic, renowned medical doctor in aesthetic medicine and owner of SkinMiles notes, “Understanding the science behind skincare ingredients helps individuals to make more informed choices and achieve their desired skin goals. Skincare isn’t a one-size fits all. Knowing the ingredients in the products you use can be helpful in achieving the best results for your skin.”
Here is a list of ingredients worth considering for their effectiveness and benefits for various skin types and conditions:
Hyaluronic acid
This ingredient has been and remains in the spotlight for many reasons, but mainly for its excellent hydrating properties. Hyaluronic acid is a powerful moisture absorbing element that can hold up to 1 000 times its weight in water. When applied topically, it deeply hydrates the skin by drawing moisture from the environment into the skin’s outer layers. It is a wonderful ingredient for skin health and functionality, treating skin disorders like dryness, scarring, and actinic keratosis (rough, scaly skin patches).
Dr Nikolic recommends using hyaluronic acid in concentrations between one to two percent for optimal hydration and plumping effects. It’s great for all skin types, especially those associated with dryness, fine lines, and dehydration.
Here are his hyaluronic acid recommendations:
SUPER FACIALIST Hyaluronic Acid Intense Facial Serum
NEOSTRATA Skin Active Hyaluronic Luminous Lift
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
L-ascorbic acid, the most potent and bioavailable form of topical vitamin C, is a powerful antioxidant which can be found in various cosmeceuticals (cosmetic product that claims to have medicinal properties). Vitamin C can help to protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet rays when used in combination with a broad-spectrum sunscreen. When combining vitamin C with other ingredients, such as vitamin E, it can diminish redness and help protect the skin from long-term damage caused by harmful sun rays. Dr Nikolic notes that “When L-ascorbic acid is used in higher concentrations (10% and higher), it can also aid in the increase of collagen production.” However, vitamin C can be unstable and irritating, so it is important to consider purchasing vitamin C products that are contained in a dark or amber serum bottle which helps to protect the vitamin C from oxidation.
Here are Dr Nikolic’s Vitamin C recommendations:
Retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde)
Retinol and all vitamin A derivatives (retinoids) increase cell production in the skin and boost collagen production, unclogging pores and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But you may be wondering how exactly this ingredient provides these almost too good to be true benefits. When applied to the treatment area, retinol immediately goes to work on your skin cells by stimulating fibroblasts to synthesise collagen fibres, encouraging them to increase in number and activity. This boost in collagen production augments skin elasticity by removing degraded cells and promoting angiogenesis (the production of new blood vessels).
Retin A usually requires a prescription, but if you prefer an over-the-counter option, many products contain retinol, a milder form of Retin A. The available percentage is 0.25 to one percent; most skins tolerate it well at about 0.5 percent, depending on the condition treated, as everyone is unique and conditions are varied: acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, and improved skin tone.
You should be guided by an aesthetic doctor or a dermatologist when choosing a product containing Vitamin A. Also, the use of a daily sunscreen is non-negotiable, as retinol products do make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
According to Dr Nikolic, these are useful retinol products to have in your bathroom cupboard:
NEOSTRATA Skin Active Matrix Support SPF 30
iS CLINICAL Retinol+ Emulsion 0.3
As a last thought, overdoing it with the number of products in your skincare routine is just not necessary. “Give your skin what it needs, when it needs it, and reassess every 10 to 12 weeks,” says Dr Nikolic.